The bra or brassiere has been around for hundreds of years, but the undergarment grew in popularity during World War I, when the metal used in corsets was needed for the war effort.

Now, the majority of women wear them, and as this Buzzfeed post humorously illustrates, it’s a bit of a love-hate relationship. Though bras have been around for a long time, finding a correctly fitting bra can be difficult.

Thankfully, there are experts who can help.

Emily Crites, owner of the specialty bra shop Amelia Madden in Springfield, has had an eventful month. Between a social-media panel at the Womens’ Entrepreneurship Symposium and seeing some of her store’s products go down the runway at 417 Magazine’s Fashionation, her store is making itself known in Springfield. She opened her “specialty bra and intimates shoppe” four months ago.

Drawing from her experiences of fitting customers, Crites provided the four steps needed to find a properly-fitting bra:

Step 1: Get the correct band size

The band is the part of the bra that goes around the ribcage. It should be firm and snug; you should only be able to pull it about an inch away from your body.

“I find a lot of girls are in the wrong bra because they’re in too big of a band,” Crites said.

It used to be that you would be measured and then four inches would be added to that measurement, but according to Crites, this is an “antiquated” method. What you measure is the size you need, even if it does feel a bit tight at first.

Step 2: Determine the correct cup size by checking for “spillage”

When trying on a bra, check for spillage over the top, out the sides and underneath the cups.

Step 3: Check the gore

The gore is the center part of the bra. In most cases, though not all, it should touch or lay flat against the chest.

Crites says that for some bras, like wireless or athletic, this won’t be true, but in most cases, it is a good rule to follow.

Step 4: Make sure that the straps stay in place

“The shoulder straps should not fall off,” Crites said.

A few circumstances could cause this unfortunate incident to occur: the wrong size of bra, too loose of a band or the age of the bra has caused the straps to loosen.

According to Crites, a good quality bra lasts for 180 wears.

All right, you followed the steps and found the perfect bra that meets all of the requirements. So you should never need to try on another bra again, right?

Well, no. Bra sizing differs by brand and style. “I think a lot of women are under the misconception that you will have a size, that you will always be a 34D, no matter what. But that is not the case,” Crites said.

Getting fitted for a bra

“Bras are like shoes, and if you know anything about shoes, sometimes you can wear a shoe in this size, but you have to go up a size in this other brand or style. Bras are the same way, and bras are that staple piece in your wardrobe, like a shoe.”

Amelia Madden offers fittings free of charge. A bra fitting goes a lot like this: They measure your ribcage to bring you bras in the correct size and based on your style preferences. From there, they help you determine the correct cup size. All in all, you’ll be done in 30 minutes.

Not only are properly fitting undergarments flattering, but they also give a good impression. When going to an interview or starting a professional job, you may be dressed impeccably in a suit or professional dress, but a poorly fitting bra that causes spillage or undergarments that show “panty lines” can ruin the whole effect.

Crites suggests invisible-edge panties and contour bras for a smooth silhouette because “you want great lingerie; you just don’t want anyone to know you’re wearing great lingerie when you’re being professional.”